Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Indian Moms, Dads, Brothers & Sisters

I’ve just arrived back in Mumbai after spending 5 days with two of my aunts and their families in Kanpur. Kanpur is a wretched city, I can’t lie. For the past 26 years, I’ve been visiting India intermittently and I’ve seen cities like Mumbai, Delhi and Bangalore develop into huge metropolitans. I’ve also seen smaller cities, like the hill station Nainital and the famous Agra better their infrastructure by building new roads and services for the community. Kanpur has stayed the same since I was a child. Most of its roads aren’t really considered roads by any standards – they are merely lanes full of broken asphalt and deep craters ready to puncture car tires. In addition to the craters, one can find a huge cow taking a nap in the middle of the road or a stray dog practicing sprints as it runs in between oncoming traffic. Kanpur is quite a big city, with a bustling population (like the rest of India) and several industries, most popular are its tanneries and leather goods. My dad’s sister and one of my mom’s sisters both live in Kanpur. My dad was also raised there. Both of my aunts live in very nice houses but their surroundings have yet to be developed. Don’t get me wrong, I love spending time with my family in Kanpur. They spoil me and cook my favourite meals and we go around the town visiting other relatives and before I know it, my trip to Kanpur is over. But, I do wish that the city would develop into something that is more attractive to those that come to visit and even those that call it home. I’m not saying it should become like Mumbai or Delhi, it’s just a shame to see a big city in the state of Uttar Pradesh (a city that my family has so many ties to) stay stagnant in terms of development.

My uncle in Kanpur told me a nice analogy. When he drives to work every morning, he sees flocks of birds in the city all leave for the surrounding lush forests for food. Before dark, the birds all return to the dust covered trees in the city. They actually leave the lush, green forests and come back to what they consider home. My uncle is right. It doesn’t really matter if the city is a bit backwards or if a village is without water and electricity – at the end of the day, anyone is glad to walk through the door of their home (or fly into their nest) and just relax. After touring the city of Kanpur in the day, the dusty air and bumpy roads make me want to pass out so I’m definitely glad to reach either of my aunt’s houses! But, to me, nothing compares to my Summerdale Place in Ancaster and to my uncle, nothing compares to his home in Kanpur.

I’m already missing my family in Kanpur. My cousin’s wife also came to see me from Delhi and we had a great time together. I also enjoyed some delicious mangoes which we can’t get here in Mumbai. One particular kind is called the ‘choosma’ mango. Me, being the amateur mango consumer didn’t know how to eat it. My grandfather’s brother instructed me to rip a hole in the skin on the top of the mango and suck all the juice out…but not too hard or a hole would rip in the bottom and all of the mango’s contents would pour out! It was quite an unconventional way to eat a mango but I must say – it was absolutely delicious. Now that I’m back in Bombay, I’ll get back to my favourite kulfi (Indian ice cream) store off Marine Drive and my favourite corn roaster at the Opera House. I miss my family in Kanpur but now I’m back at my aunt’s place in Mumbai and the homesick feeling is gone.

I have so many moms, dads, sisters and brothers here in India. It’s amazing how all of my aunts, uncles and cousins take me into their homes, feed me amazing food, take me through the transit system to help me commute to CCDT and just in general make me feel at home. I was telling my aunt today that I feel kind of useless when I’m in India because in most houses, there are servants that take care of the cooking and cleaning so I can’t even contribute in the household chores! It’s too bad I hardly cook at home or at least I’d make a meal occasionally (my mom is shaking her head in disgust right now). I think I’ll try to make some pasta or lasagna before I go – and if it turns out to be a disaster, there’s always takeout!

For a while, I thought Mumbai was being extra nice to me and holding back on the torrential downpours. Wishful thinking. Today I got soaked. My aunt and I went out to a bridal show (not to find me a husband) to look at all the fancy jewelry and clothes. Then, we went to Churchgate, one of the main train stations in South Bombay and I got myself a monthly pass so that I can commute to CCDT. Similar to the GO train at home, this pass will take me to Bandra, a distance equivalent to that between Oakville and Toronto. My monthly pass cost me 350 Rupees – not even $10! Train travel is extremely cost efficient in Mumbai – possibly to make up for the extravagant cost of living. After getting my pass, my aunt and I decided to walk home which is usually just a 10 minute walk. Five minutes into our walk, it started to rain lightly again so we broke out the umbrellas. Within 2 minutes, it was a full on downpour and we quickly took shelter at a bus stop. With the wind and rain combined, my back got soaked and as we took 15 seconds to jump into a cab, the rest of my body, head to toe was drenched. Thank god it’s warm over here or I would be one damn cranky Priya. I’m glad to be back in Mumbai because I’m looking forward to working with CCDT. I feel like it’s my first day of school!

Mumbai trains can be quite scary. Since the population is so dense, it’s a mad race to get on the trains and an even crazier race to get off. With the recent bombings in Bangalore and Ahemdabad, I’m a little hesitant to travel on the trains in Mumbai considering the bombings that happened on them two years ago. But, in this day in age, unfortunately our every day lives are a game of luck. Crazy terrorists are all over the world and I know first hand that they can strike at any time. In the past 3 years, violence has followed me on most of my trips. In 2005, there were bombings the day I landed in London. There was an earthquake and bombings when I was in Delhi. Last year, Benazir Bhutto was assassinated the night I was leaving India and we were worried that there would be riots in the streets. And now, this past week, there were 9 bombs planted in Bangalore and they all blew within an hour. The next day a series of bombs blew in Ahemdabad. Now, I’m going to go pack my lunch for tomorrow…and get ready for the intense commute that will hopefully become routine within a few days and I’m going to try not to think of the latest violence that is circulating through the country.


Sunday, July 20, 2008

A whirlwind trip to Pune (Poona)

I'm back from staying with Janhavi for a week in Pune. We had a great time eating out and meeting with friends and relatives. I also went to Deep Griha, where Janhavi has been volunteering and where I was supposed to volunteer before the opportunity in Bombay presented itself. It was so refreshing to see so many international volunteers spending their summers in India doing charity work. A group of French volunteers raised loads of money to help build the youth center at Deep Griha. What a success it was! The youth center is an awesome facility that will provide so many kids and teens with much needed counselling and extra-curricular activities. One morning when we went to one of Deep Griha's locations in the slum, we came across the most adorable 2 year olds. There they were, TWENTY of them patiently waiting on a 10x10 bench for their playroom to be cleaned. When Janhavi and I were greeted by the 'Hi Aunty' voices, we both looked at each other with such huge smiles! What a way to start the day! We convinced the little toddlers to call us Didi (sister) instead of Aunty because come on...I'm not an Aunty yet! It was great fun playing with the kids and it was amazing to know that they were all taken care of during the day while their parents may be sick or busy working.

I'm now back in Bombay for one night before I go see my relatives in Kanpur tomorrow. After that, I start my work at CCDT here in Bombay and I'm excited to get going on that! Janhavi and I had way too much fun in Pune...mostly in the form of several sizzling brownie desserts and delicious meals. We also managed to do some trekking one early morning and I actually survived! We climbed to a fort about 800 m high called Sinhagad (meaning Lion Fort). The distance wasn't too much, but the trek was steep! We took a few breaks but eventually made it to the top where we had some long anticipated snacks and walked around the old fort where one of the most famous battles in Maharashtra took place centuries ago. The scenery was breathtaking, especially in the monsoon season as everything was so lush and green.

TOP 10 MOMENTS WITH JANHAVI:
10) Inhaling a delicious slice of chocolate cake in a five star hotel in Bombay only to have a group of middle-aged women stare at us and tell us how 'lucky' we were to be able to eat such junk! We couldn't stop laughing.
9) Seeing Anil Kapoor (a famous Bollywood actor) in a club in Bombay surrounded by his entourage of dancers...he's old enough to be my father!
8) Having lunch by a double-decker bus in Notting Hill...oops, I mean Pune - at the 11th Street restaurant (I think that was the name). It's a new restaurant in Pune that's all about London!
7) Coming home and crashing every night at 9pm from all of our gallavanting and becoming hooked on smutty Indian reality television.
6) Observing all the ninjas in Pune...there are so many of them! Women on scooters tend to wrap up their faces with scarves in a completely ninja-way to avoid inhaling all of the car fumes...but wow, does it crack me up!
5) Eating delicious kulfi on Marine Drive in Bombay....one can NEVER get enough!
4) Hanging outside Shah Rukh Khan's (one of the KINGS of Bollywood) house in Bandra for 40 minutes only to see his two very cute dogs.
3) Dancing to fun Bollywood music with our new friends at a farmhouse under the moonlight because the lights kept going out!
2) Handing out sweets to all of the kids at Deep Griha at the opening of the youth center.
1) Playing with the adorable toddlers at Deep Griha, their smiles have made my trip already!

I'm really going to miss Janhavi but hopefully we'll meet up once more before she leaves for Canada on August 1...she herself can't stay away from Bombay because she loves it just as much as I do! I met two of her close childhood friends in Pune too and the four of us had a great time together, even though it was so short! I'm looking forward to keeping in touch with them as well.

My dad called me yesterday and I could just feel his smile over the phone. A small article I submitted to the Hamilton Spectator newspaper was published over the weekend in the Travel section. It was kind of like a photo essay about India and one of the pictures was of a monument from my dad's hometown so he was so proud! I didn't tell anyone that I submitted an essay so they were all really surprised to see my name and picture in the paper! My parents friends were calling them to say congrats to me and I got so many well wishes from all of my friends as well. It's such a small little story but it felt great to share it with so many people! Here is the link, enjoy!
http://www.thespec.com/article/405579

Monday, July 14, 2008

In India...again!

It's taken me ten days to settle down and gather my thoughts since I arrived in India. A few things have changed in my plans for volunteering. Instead of spending all my time in Pune at Deep Griha, another opportunity arose in Bombay and it's working out to be much more practical for me to stay in Bombay with my family. I had an interview with CCDT (Committed Communities Development Trust - http://www.ccdtrust.org/) and they are really happy to take me on temporarily as part of their team. I will be compiling a best practices document of all of their programmes and spending time in their orphanage for children infected and affected by HIV. The orphanage also has a trauma center for critically ill women infected with HIV and also trains women to be self-sufficient by teaching them various handicrafts which they sell and earn money. I will not be starting my work there until July 28th so in the mean time, I will be visiting with relatives. I am currently in Poona right now as I still wanted to see Deep Griha, the charity I originally was to volunteer for. Janhavi and I went to the opening of their youth center today and it was amazing to see hundreds of children in this new building that will be providing them with computer classes, counselling and many other activities.
CCDT's orphanage is called 'Ashray', which in English means 'shelter'. I visited during lunch time and saw children ranging from age 5 to age 12. After eating their meals they all washed their own dishes and then began a game of cricket outside. They all greeted me with a warm welcome - "Good afternoon Didi" (Didi means sister). There are approximately 50 kids in the shelter and all are well taken care of by being placed in good schools and eventually placed with adopted families or foster homes. If needed, the children are given anti-retroviral therapy and medical attention is always provided. I'm really looking forward to interacting with the kids and learning about the programmes that CCDT offers. The shelter is hidden amongst a busy area in Bombay but it is like a sanctuary in the middle of such chaos.
I will keep everyone updated on all of my happenings in India. Hope all is well back home!